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| Another longer exploring run. This time, past the Town Hall and over toward the Neris, then to the castle. I touch the brick walls, look out over the rivers, and explore (carefully and safely) the battlements. They are so simple but so effective. The roof is almost flat on the inside, so defenders could stand and aim (I imagine bows and arrows - and even mime drawing and shooting). But they are steeply slanted over the high outside walls, so attackers couldn't aim at the defenders but the defenders could shoot right down on the attackers. Except the attacking "Crusaders" eventually won, beating the evil "pagan" Lithuanians. The place does feel very sad. Almost like there's a weight on my shoulders. The jackdaws, magpies, and two-tone grey crows sound mournful, instead of raucous here. Not a place I could picnic, but a place I needed to be. |  |
On the way back through the Old Town, the mottled grey spaniel recognizes me and gets all wiggly, with excited whines. He gives me lots of kisses while his owner giggles.
After I shower and we breakfast on blynai su vaisiai, we meet Ona and Roze in the lobby. They give Mom a copy of her grandmother's passport. Now she has the personal details (eye color, height....) that make both her grandparents real! We all go up to our suite for a picture fest, where I open our doors and change to a short-sleeved top. What a lovely day.
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Ona shows Mom a photo and explains it, then Roze does the same with me - in Lithuanian. It's kind of fun to be on the receiving end of the "talk loud and slow and they must understand" routine for which Americans are infamous. But I actually am understanding some. Wonder if it's all those visits with Mama and Tete when I was little, and they did speak to me in Lithuanian. Obviously I understood then. Anyhow, Mom is having a great time. I wish she had been able to grow up with her cousins, or that she could see them often now. But the world does not accommodate itself to our wishes. But she would have had fun with Ona, Roze, Liuda, Valentina, Regina...and the "boys". Bet she'd have treated Elyte like another daughter back then - we'd have been practically twins! |
Although we tried to return all the coats and warm clothes they loaned us, they give us each a coat to keep - just in case it turns cold again. Everyone has been so helpful and concerned. I guess that's what being a family means. I am really going to miss them all, and especially miss this feeling of really belonging. I will bring Chuck here some day.
After they leave, Mom & I go out to stroll along Laisves. I love all the flower vendors, the folks selling carved wood, jewelry, toys, ice cream, fresh rolls.... And I love the music from the tape and CD vendors in doorways, including the doorway of Monela. There's one song (Tris Milliones, it sounds like) that blares across the mall and seems to be the Lithuanian Olympic song. I will always hear it when I look at my photos of this trip, or just remember bits and images. It seems to express the cheer and vitality I feel growing here.
We pause at Dolmite, where Vytas and Elyte took us the day we met. Elyte had told Mom that she and her friends often stop here for pastry and champagne, so that is what we'll have to celebrate our trip. Yum - pleasantly dry champagne by the (large) glass, deliciously rich pastries where you can taste all the individual flavors (not just the "sweet"), and a relaxing kavine. Yup, I could live like this.
More shopping and strolling in the autumn sun. And we meet Elyte - and invite her and Vytas to join us for our last dinner here, tonight. Tomorrow will be a real early night because our flight Friday is at 7:30 A. M. I try to buy a tape of that Olympic song from the woman in our (Monela) doorway. She has only the CDs right now, but will have tapes tomorrow. I (through Mom, of course) ask her to keep one for me. I have to have this musical theme of our trip.
Back in our rooms, we start packing while watching the head of the Lithuanian Cycling Federation sound very serious, concerned, and apologetic about the "dismal" showing in the women's road race - only a Bronze. Mom writes a few last post cards (which we will beat home, but that doesn't ever matter). Then I leave Mom to rest while I go out for my late afternoon walk.
The Internet place is busy, so I go to the post office first, then back to get online. Chuck is still worried about the gas (petrol) shortages in Europe. But Lithuania seems to have plenty, at reasonable prices. And the TV news shows protests in what appear to be Scandinavian and German speaking areas. We try to read the road signs on the film footage to figure it out! I also learn that "zaliems" must mean "dummies"; the "... For Dummies" books in the rack by the cashier say "... per Zaliems". (Actually, zalias means beginners; Lithuanians are too polite to translate it exactly.) One more grocery stop for bottled water.
Over a beer cocktail, I reconfirm with Air Lithuania, arrange for the woman from Litinterp to come here tomorrow so I can pay (Try this in the U.S. - using a car and driver off and on for over 2 weeks, without even a deposit or credit card number, then pay!), watch some strange Olympic wrestling, crochet a bit, and watch the crows, ravens, and jack daws settle on the unfinished Russian hotel behind us. Then Elyte and Vytas arrive and we head to Zalias Rate for a good-bye dinner.
It's in a traditional-style (although new) building of smooth logs, with a thatched roof, an odd almost-beehive whitewashed central fireplace, sort of picnic tables, linen and lace valances on the windows, electrified lanterns, bits of old farm and home machinery, and waitresses in traditional costumes. Mom orders the spicy beef; Vytas, Elyte, and I order the Zemaitisu potato pancakes mashed potato fried around a ground meat patty and lightly fried). However, the waitress is not traditional. She is far too preoccupied with the next table - of what appears to be a business party. Must figure they'll tip better - not knowing I that I keep tipping U.S. style, more fool she. She brings beer for Vytas and me, wine for Mom & Elyte, and food for Mom & me. We wait a bit; she has only the two hands. But she goes back to the other table. I remind her that we ordered for four. She nods, and ignores the whole deal. I'm very polite, but I go to the cashier and ask if they have to dig the potatoes for our other two meals. Another waitress eventually brings them. Yes, they are delicious, but they should have all arrived together. Our waitress finally returns to ask about dessert. We get big dishes of caramel ice cream. (Not ice cream with caramel sauce; the ice cream is caramel flavor.) I don't tip a t all. I just wish that foolish girl knew the size of the tip she lost!
Back in our room, alone, we watch a bit of TV while I crochet. Or, rather, I watch. It's film from the jazz festival in Vilnius last weekend. Our viewing starts with a really good Lithuanian traditional group (that's traditional jazz - bebop - not traditional Lithuanian). I like them best. The rest seem to be European, and not really my style. But it's a pleasant finish to a nice day.
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