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Getting there is significantly less than half the fun. It's being there when the fun starts.
The problem with an overnight flight is that I have the whole day to vibrate, get my stomach in a knot, and otherwise totally stress out. But we arrived at RDU in plenty of time, Chuck helped us check our bags, and we headed to the gate. I was a tad worried because American Airlines said they could check the bags only to Hamburg, not all the way to Kaunas. And no idea why. But Mom's 3-wheeled walker made walking the concourse a breeze. And it got us onto the plane first. Bulkhead seats meant that we had a bit more room and could almost sleep. But we were too excited to do more than doze anyhow.
Our problems began at Gatwick, where we did not have a very long time until our next flight. And where we learned that we had wait for a gate, then get all the way to the North Terminal for our connection. Cart, elevator, bus - then customs, then a very confusing gate system and undecipherable announcements. What is listed as one gate is actually about a dozen, in all different directions. Mom was tired (and a bit panicked), I was confused, and we barely made it to the correct gate in time for the shuttle to the plane. I must admit that the British people were incredibly polite; strangers helped with the walker and our backpacks. And we always had seats, even if the bus or room was full when we arrived.
Naturally, after all that rush, the Duetche British Air flight was not scheduled for take-off. Huh? Isn't this a scheduled flight? Oh well, although we took off a half-hour late, we arrived right on time. All this while, I was resetting my watch from Eastern Daylight Time, to British Daylight Time, to European Daylight Time. And preparing to go one more hour ahead for Lithuania. And Mom was trying to keep on her schedule for her medications in spite of the time changes.
Hamburg was a challenge. Luggage, customs, and all went OK but was physically challenging. And we were getting tired. We managed to get upstairs where we had to check our baggage and find our flight. But we ran out of English. Mom and I cannot really manage in German. She hasn't used what she knew in ages, and no one could use my bits of Yedermann and World War I poetry from that 1965 class. Luckily, the woman at the Air Lithuania desk spoke some English and enough Lithuanian for Mom to get us the wheelchair she needed. Finally, we got the type of assistance we had expected throughout the trip. The Germans definitely are efficient. And wheelchair assistance is definitely the way to get through customs! A wheelchair, two attendants, and a private bus to the plane. Like royalty.
We noticed that the size of the planes diminished - and the quality of the food and the service increased - as we progresses. And the view from the windows got better and more exciting as we approached Lithuania. We could see the spit of land, sort of a barrier peninsular that goes from Kaliningrad to Klaipeda along the Lithuanian coast as we came for our brief stop in Palanga. Then we followed the A1 over unexpected fields and forests to Kaunas. We were not prepared for how lush and beautiful Lithuania is. From all we had learned , we thought the Soviets had devastated the ecology and industrialized the whole country. What a wonderful surprise.
| But not the biggest one. We landed at Kaunas, went through customs, collected our luggage, and headed through a little corridor to the main part of the terminal. And met a huge crowd of people, each with a fresh flower. When I recognized Elyte and Vytas, I realized that this was our family! They all hugged us and introduced themselves. But I cannot understand anywhere near enough Lithuanian. I know who is here, but I cannot keep the names and faces together. There is one man who is obviously Tete's half brother. But I'm not sure which name is his. I do know that the tall young man with the very serious face is Adrijus, who was Vikki's pen pal when they were teen-agers. But we are so overcome with this wonderful, loving family. Mom had no idea how many relatives she has here. All our lives, we have felt like loners on this side of the family. It was my father who had the large family with a gazillion aunts, uncles, cousins, second cousins, third-cousins twice removed.... But now we are part of this family, too. And this is family. I feel no sense of strangeness; I feel at home and as if I have known these people all my life. Even if I can't tell who is who. |  |
Adrijus drove us across Kaunas to our hotel, Monela, right on Laisves al, the wide, tree-lined pedestrian mall through the heart of the Old and New Town areas. We pass tall bland apartment buildings, busy shopping areas, factories - and two young racing cyclists traffic-jamming in the most incredible traffic I've ever seen. This makes Caracas, Venezuela look sane!
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The hotel is rather old and a bit run-down. Not anywhere near some of the places Betty described in Kiev, though. Dull matte walls, not much electric lighting, and need for refurbishing. But it has a separate sitting room, separate bath and toilet rooms, an elevator up to our 5th floor with great views towards the Nemunas River from the two balconies and of Laisves aleja (al.) from the end of the hall, breakfast included, a good-sized fridge, comfortable beds, a perfect location, and a friendly and helpful (if non-English-speaking) staff. |  |
We sure weren't hungry; it seemed like we done little but eat for two days. And Mom was tired. It was just twilight, and I went out for a walk. Wow! What a place. Soft chilly air, trees in a double row down the center of the mall - just beginning to turn fall colors, people out walking or eating outside the many kavines (cafes). Families strolling together, young couples cuddling, grandparents with toddles on tricycles. Everyone well-dressed and pleasant. I found an ATM and got a supply of litai, then found a little grocery, just where the mall turns a bit left towards the Old Town. Bought a bottle of drinking water. Me with no Lithuanian, the clerk with no English - and she had to give me change for a 100 litai note for a 1.20 litai bottle of water!
I love Kaunas.
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